A few kilometres south of Merzouga, at the edge of the Erg Chebbi dunes, lies the small village of Khamlia. It is home to a Gnawa community whose music is one of the most powerful and moving experiences in the Moroccan Sahara.
This guide explains who the Gnawa are, what makes their music unique and how to visit Khamlia respectfully.
Who Are the Gnawa?
The Gnawa are a community whose ancestors came from sub-Saharan Africa, many of them brought to Morocco centuries ago through the trans-Saharan trade, including slavery. Over time, they developed a unique spiritual and musical tradition that combines African rhythms with Sufi Islamic practices.
Gnawa music is used in healing ceremonies, celebrations and spiritual gatherings. In 2019, Gnawa was inscribed on UNESCO's list of the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity.
The Instruments
- Guembri (or sintir): a three-string bass lute made of wood and camel skin, played by the master musician, the maalem.
- Qraqeb: large metal castanets that create the hypnotic, repetitive rhythm.
- Tbel: a large drum used in ceremonies.
The songs are built on call-and-response singing and rhythms that grow faster and faster, creating a trance-like atmosphere.
Khamlia Village
Khamlia is a small, peaceful village of earthen houses surrounded by desert. It is often described as the “Gnawa village” of the Merzouga region, and several families keep the tradition alive.
What Happens During a Visit
A typical visit to Khamlia includes:
- A welcome with mint tea.
- A short explanation of Gnawa history and culture.
- A live music performance by local musicians in white robes and decorated caps.
- Often an invitation to dance or play the qraqeb.
Visits usually last 30 to 60 minutes. There is generally no fixed ticket, but a donation or the purchase of a CD supports the musicians and their families.
How to Visit Khamlia
Khamlia is about 7 kilometres from Merzouga and is easy to visit:
- During a 4x4 tour around Erg Chebbi, together with nomad families and old mines.
- On the way to or from your desert camp.
- As part of a multi-day desert tour.
Read our Merzouga guide for more activities in the area.
Tips for a Respectful Visit
- Ask before taking photos or filming people.
- Leave a fair donation for the musicians.
- Dress modestly in the village.
- Listen with respect: for the Gnawa, the music has spiritual meaning.
Where Else to Hear Gnawa Music
The Gnawa tradition is also strong in Essaouira, which hosts the famous Gnawa and World Music Festival, usually in June. You may also hear Gnawa musicians around Jemaa el-Fna in Marrakech and at some desert camps in the evening.
Combine Khamlia With Your Desert Tour
A visit to Khamlia adds a cultural dimension to your Sahara trip. It is easy to include on a 3- or 4-day itinerary. Compare options in our article 3-day vs 4-day desert tour from Fes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is Khamlia worth visiting?
Yes, it is one of the most authentic cultural experiences in the Merzouga region.
How much does a visit cost?
There is usually no fixed price; visitors leave a donation.
Can I visit Khamlia on a 2-day tour?
It is possible if time allows, but a 3-day tour gives more time for the area.
Discover the Sahara and Its Culture
Experience the dunes, the music and the people of the desert with Fes Morocco Tours. See our desert tours or contact us.
