The Chouara Tannery is the most famous sight in Fes and one of the most photographed places in Morocco. From the terraces above, you look down on hundreds of round stone vats filled with white and coloured liquids, where workers soak, wash and dye animal hides by hand, much as they have done for centuries.
It is a fascinating place, but it can also be confusing for first-time visitors. Where do you go? Do you need to pay? Why do people give you mint? This complete visitor guide answers all of these questions so you can enjoy the tannery with confidence.
What Is the Chouara Tannery?
The Chouara Tannery is a traditional leather tannery located in the heart of Fes el-Bali, the old medina of Fes, close to the Seffarine area and the Saffarin river. It is the largest of the three historic tanneries of Fes and is believed to date back many centuries, making it one of the oldest working tanneries in the world.
The tannery is still a real workplace. The leather produced here is used by artisans across the medina to make bags, jackets, babouches (slippers), poufs, belts and many other products.
How Leather Is Made at Chouara
Watching the workers from above makes much more sense when you understand the process.
1. Softening and cleaning the hides
Raw hides of sheep, goats, cows and camels are first soaked in the white vats. These contain a traditional mixture used to soften the skins and help remove hair and fat. Workers then scrape the hides by hand.
2. Washing
The hides are washed several times to remove the remaining residues before dyeing.
3. Dyeing
The softened leather is moved to the coloured vats. Traditionally, natural colourings were used, such as poppy for red, indigo for blue, henna for orange and saffron for yellow. Today a mix of natural and modern dyes is common.
4. Drying
Finally, the dyed hides are laid out on the surrounding rooftops and hills to dry in the sun before being sold to leather workers.
How to Visit the Chouara Tannery
You cannot walk among the vats. The tannery is seen from the terraces of the leather shops that surround it. Shop staff guide you up the stairs to a balcony with a view, explain the process and then invite you to look at their products.
- Entry: There is usually no official ticket. Some terraces ask for a small tip, especially if you do not buy anything.
- Finding it: Follow signs for the tanneries in the medina or ask for “Chouara”. A licensed guide makes it much easier.
- Time needed: 20 to 45 minutes, including the leather shop.
Why Do They Give You Mint?
The tannery has a strong smell, especially on hot days, because of the traditional materials used in the process. Staff usually hand visitors a sprig of fresh mint to hold under the nose. Most people find the smell quite manageable after a few minutes.
Best Time to Visit
The best time is in the morning, roughly between 9:00 and 11:00. The workers are active, the light is good for photos and the vats show their brightest colours. In the afternoon there is often less activity. On Fridays, many workers take time off for prayer, so the tannery can be quieter.
In summer, the smell is stronger in the heat. Spring and autumn are the most pleasant seasons to visit, as explained in our guide to the weather in Morocco by month.
Photography Tips
- Choose a terrace on a high floor for a wide view of all the vats.
- Use the morning light for strong colours and fewer shadows.
- Ask before taking close-up photos of individual workers.
- A wide-angle lens or the 0.5x mode on your phone works very well.
Buying Leather Without Pressure
After the view, staff will show you the shop. You are free to browse and leave politely. If you are interested in buying, compare quality and prices in a few shops first.
Check the stitching, smell the leather (a strong chemical smell is not a good sign) and test zips and buckles. For more advice, read our guide to shopping and bargaining in the Fes Medina.
Other Tanneries in Fes
Chouara is the most famous, but Fes has two other historic tanneries: Sidi Moussa and Ain Azliten. They are smaller and usually quieter, and a local guide can take you there if you want a less crowded experience.
Combine the Tannery With Other Sights
The Chouara Tannery fits naturally into a walking tour of Fes el-Bali. Nearby you can visit Seffarine Square with its coppersmiths, Al-Qarawiyyin, Al-Attarine Madrasa and the Nejjarine Museum. See our full list of the best things to do in Fes.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is the Chouara Tannery free?
There is usually no entry ticket. Viewing is from shop terraces, and a small tip is appreciated if you do not buy anything.
Does the tannery smell bad?
The smell is strong, especially in summer, but most visitors get used to it quickly. The mint offered at the entrance helps.
Can I go down into the tannery?
No. It is a working area, and visitors watch from the terraces above.
Do I need a guide?
Not necessarily, but the medina is complex. A licensed guide helps you find the best terrace and avoid unofficial guides.
Visit the Tannery With a Local Guide
Discover the Chouara Tannery and the hidden corners of the old medina with a licensed local guide from Fes Morocco Tours. Explore our activities in Fes or contact us to book a private medina tour.
